一个洋妞骑着左宗申独闯天涯

夏季风.

加拿大那两口子的摩旅贴不知道什么原因遭和谐了，可惜了了，这回给各位老铁搬个美女来。为了降低遭和谐的可能性，这次就不放原贴的链接了，不过我会把原文搬过来供大家拜读，一来有的朋友不喜欢看翻译过来的东西，二来翻译的过程中难免出现走样，甚至错误。闲言碎语不要讲，咱们现在就开席吧。


So a couple of years back, I kind of accidentally ended up riding across South America for about 19 months, and I’ve decided to write it up purely because of Steve and Chris (you know who you are!). I met Steve and Chris at the Horizons Unlimited meet in Wales, UK in June. They’re good people.
Anyway, here’s how it happened.
I was in Peru in spring of 2013, backpacking and volunteering, when I suddenly decided to get a motorcycle. I’m not entirely sure why; I had never ridden before, but somehow, I thought learning to ride wouldn’t be very difficult, and it seemed like an awesome way to travel. A Sudden Motorcycle Syndrome. Yeah, why not.
话说两年前，鬼使神差地花了19个月时间穿越了南美洲，我之所以决定把这东西写出来完全是因为史蒂夫和克里斯的缘故。至于我说的这俩是谁，自个儿心里清楚。我是在六月份去英国威尔士参加Horizons Unlimited举办的摩友聚会时认识他俩的，人非常不错。
好勒，言归正传吧。
我是在2013年春天的时候突然决定要买辆摩托车的，当时我在秘鲁，既是个背包客，也是个自愿者。我也不知道为什么突然就心血来潮，之前也从来没骑过摩托车，不过觉得学起来应该不难，而且还觉得骑着摩托车旅行应该是件很拉风的事情。就这样莫名其妙地中毒了，既然中毒了那就吃药呗。

At the time, I was staying in Nazca where I met a fellow traveler, Ryan from California. He was riding Peru on his 250cc bike, and he agreed to teach me how to ride. We went to a washing machine shop (the proper bike shop was closed that day) where they had a few bikes for sale; Ryan advised me to get a 250cc one, but because CC’s were a complete mystery to me back then, I got the blue one instead. The blue one was 150cc. Ryan said it would be ok – and it was, in fact, it was absolutely brilliant! Here’s how that wondrous machine looked like:
我当时住在纳斯卡，在那里认识了一个同道中人，叫瑞恩，来自加利福尼亚，正骑着一辆250摩旅秘鲁，他答应教我骑车。由于那天正规的摩托车店没开门，我们只好去了一家卖洗衣机的店，他们有几台车要卖。瑞恩建议我买250的，由于本人还是个菜鸟，根本搞不清楚排量为何物，就没听他的，要了蓝色那辆。蓝色那辆是150的。瑞恩让我放心大胆地用，说这玩意儿绝对堪当大任。我把这个神器给大家展示一下吧：

So the next day, Ryan taught me how to ride. I managed to start, more or less stop, do a wobbly figure of eight, and we’d decided that was good enough. I strapped my backpack on the bike’s tail and left the next day.
第二天，瑞恩开始教我骑车。我费了老大劲儿才起步，走走停停，摇摇晃晃，在地上画了一个蝴蝶结之后我们一致认为可以出师了。到了次日，我把行李帮到摩托车后面就出发了。

I only planned to ride around Peru for a few months, but ended up doing this:
我本来只打算花几个月时间围着秘鲁骑一圈的，没想到最后变成这个样子：

Which, I guess, is pretty standard for most riders doing South America; still, doing it on a small Chinese bike with zero previous experience, being a bit geographically and chronologically challenged, and running out of money in Argentina is somewhat amusing, so I’ll just write the stories up. Because if I could do it, then surely anybody can, right?:)
这东西，我敢说，绝对是大部分到南美洲的骑士们心中最完美的线路；另外，完成这东西靠的是一辆中国产的小摩托，而且此前没有任何摩旅经验，胸中一无山川沟壑，二无深谋远略，在阿根廷还搞得身无分文，实在是见笑得很，所以我要好好地写一写。各位，我都能做得到，想必没人会说做不到吧？

夏季风.

坛子里还是有人气的撒，哪有传说中的那么惨。就是感觉发帖的少了，看来缺的不是人，而是内容。

夏季风.

here goes:)
开始啰☺


Nazca - Mollendo, Peru
秘鲁 纳斯卡→莫延多


My first day riding out of Nazca was an epic success of awesome proportions: after packing and re-packing again (I knew nothing of panniers, waterproof bags, or even rok straps back then, and even if I had a clue, all that was available was some string and rope in the market, so that’s what I used) and naming the bike Blinkin, I finally set off and almost immediately crashed at the next corner, which I found very confusing because I thought I had learned how to ride already?.. I picked the bike up, set off again, and crashed again at another corner just barely missing an elderly gentleman who jumped out of my way, then looked at me with a sort of fatherly ridicule, helped me to pick the bike up, then smiled a wonderfully toothless smile, said something in his local dialect and went away shaking his head. I then inferred that perhaps one does not, in fact, learn to ride in a couple of hours; also, a laden pony behaves a bit differently than a pony without luggage.
离开纳斯卡那天是我的摩旅首秀，涌现的光荣事迹实在是罄竹难书。我压根儿不知道有什么边箱、防水包这一说，甚至连绑带都不没听说过，当然了，捆行李需要绳子还是晓得的。跑市场里买了些麻绳，有粗的，也有细的，相当不好使，折腾了半天才大功告成。接着又给车车取了个名字，叫靓仔，万事俱备，这下终于可以出发了。好事多磨啊，第一个弯就没能过得去，倒了。我不是已经学会了吗，怎么会这样呢？扶起车，继续走，到下一个拐弯的地方又出事了，这次还差点撞了一个老大爷。只见老大爷往边上一闪，看着我，就像一个老父亲看着自己的傻闺女一般。大爷帮我把车扶起来，咧嘴一笑，满口无牙，操着当地方言咕唧了一通，然后便摇着头走了。看来两小时就想写会一门技艺不大可能啊。另外，这三寸丁儿绑了行李跟没绑行李还是有点差别的。

Eventually, I did make it through a maze of crazy little streets and one very scary roundabout and was out on the open road. Holy crap!!! I wasn’t sure whether I counted as a proper biker yet because Blinkin was only little, and it was my first day on the road, but I definitely felt like one. I was enjoying the hell out of all the 85 kilometers per hour, and soon enough, I got all brave and smug about my superior road skills (the two crashes in the morning were very soon forgotten) so I decided to test Blinkin’s maximum speed and twisted the throttle all the way. Blinkin obliged and managed an absolutely staggering awesomeness of about 107,5 km/h!!!
穿过迷宫般的狭窄街道，又战战兢兢地过了一个转盘，终于来到了大路上，我勒个去！我算不算是一个正儿八经的骑手，一时还无法下个决断，一则靓仔只是辆小车，二则这毕竟是我第一天上路。不过呢，我自己倒是感觉挺良好，把速度提到了85，哇塞，爽到不行。很快我的胆儿就壮了起来，自信心爆棚，觉得自己的技术已经炉火纯青了，早上两次摔车的惨痛教训此刻已经忘到了九霄云外。我决定要测试一下靓仔的极限速度，慢慢地把油门拧到最大。靓仔相当给力，把速度拉到了107.5的高位，简直让人叹为观止。

I mean, of course I’d seen bikes before, I’d seen people riding bikes, I knew that bikes were fast things – but I never knew what it felt to ride one. So to me, Blinkin was this incredibly amazing, beautiful machine, and 107,5km/h on it felt like more than any Fireblade could ever dream of doing that day on the Panamerican.
我解释一下哈。没吃过猪肉也见过猪跑，我当然知道摩托车跑起来嗖嗖的，只是我从来没骑过，不知道什么感觉，所以在我眼中靓仔就是个惊为天人的神器，107.5公里丫，我敢说那天在泛美公路上跑的那些本田火刃都甭想达到这个速度。

A few hours after my outrageous maximum speed attempt, the world suddenly turned blurry, the road became all weird and silky and all my bravado was gone within seconds: out of nowhere, there suddenly was a sandstorm. Of course, you’d expect sandstorms to be fairly common in a desert – and the whole region of Ica is nothing but desert – but it completely threw me off, so I stopped at the side of the road to wait it out.
作死了几个小时之后，突然天昏地暗，路变得很怪异，如丝绸一般轻柔。一场沙尘暴不期而至，我争强好胜的心瞬间就没了。当然了，伊卡这地方除了沙就是沙，遇到沙尘暴也是件很正常的事儿。虽然有这个心理准备，可真遇上还是挺吓人的，停到路边不敢动，想等停息了再走。

The sandstorm came and went, and I set off again, cautiously sticking to the side of the road and only doing Blinkin’s standard 85km/h instead of previous recklessness of the fabulous 107,5km/h.
The sun was about to set, it was getting cooler, and I suddenly felt a little uneasy. There was no one else on the road. If the bike broke down, I wouldn’t have the slightest idea what to do. There was nothing but desert around.
So when I finally rolled into Chala, a tiny fishing village on the coast of the Pacific, it felt like an incredible, hard won victory of extraordinary value and meaning instead of being what it was – just a day’s ride. I found a little hostel – it had no windows, but the owner let me park Blinkin inside – and then I found beer, and sat down on the sidewalk, and the women were selling fish, bananas and coca leaves and sharing tea and gossip, and the sun set into the ocean, and the whole village stank of fish and diesel oil, and the beer was warm, but I felt like a hero, A Conquerer of Street Corners, A Master of Incredible Speeds, A Defeater Of Nasty Sandstorms – it was the best evening imaginable, and I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow, and life was good.
I spent the next week riding through a bunch of little fishing villages along the Panamericana, stayed in Camana for a day and then headed to Mollendo; I spent a couple of days there and then decided I should have a destination. I had vaguely heard of Valle del Colca from someone, so I figured, why the hell not.
这沙尘暴是说来就来，说走就走。我再次出发，贴着路边，按85公里的额定时速小心翼翼地往前走，不敢再恣意妄为，让靓仔飚那个107.5的极速了。
太阳快要落山了，天儿也变得越来越冷，我突然觉得有点心慌。路上一个人都没有，要是摩托车坏了可咋整？我是一点办法都没有的，周围除了沙就是沙。
终于到了查拉，一个太平洋边上的小渔村。真是一场来之不易的胜利啊，其价值和意义非比寻常，岂是草草一句“骑了一天车”就能盖棺定论的？找了家小旅店，窗户都没有，不大放心，好在老板说可以把车停屋里。出去弄了点啤酒，坐在街边小酌。摊贩都是些女人，有卖鱼的，有卖香蕉的，还有卖古柯叶的，她们一边喝着茶，一边扯些闲话。太阳落到了海里，整个村庄散发着一股鱼腥味、柴油味，连啤酒都是热的，不过又能怎样，我就觉得自己像个英雄，一个征服过转盘的英雄，一个拉到过极速的英雄，一个打败过沙尘暴的英雄。这是个多么美好的夜晚，美好得让人沾着枕头便能入睡。生活待我不薄啊。
沿着泛美公路又骑了一周，经过许多小渔村，途中在卡马纳呆了一天，然后就去了莫延多，在那里又呆了两三天后方才觉得应该有个方向才是。好像听得有人说过什么科尔卡谷啥的，于是我就想，既如此老娘就去一趟呗。

And so the journey started…
敬请期待……

夏季风.

johnlin525 发表于 2022-10-11 22:04
哈哈 还好楼主张贴了原文。不如看这译文，那意思有点南辕北辙了。楼主加油！
第一句话说的是，女骑士在几 ...

多谢指教